Padre Pio lived in a monastery in San Giovanni Rotondo, Italy for most of his life. Right now, his body, uncorrupted, lies in a glass casket there for pilgrims to come and see. I have seen it.
When I was twenty-one years old, my mother, who was psychotically in love with the agony of Jesus, promised she’d take me to Italy and France if I’d agree to visit churches and shrines with her while we were there. She had a special devotion to Padre Pio and a taste for blood, stigmata specifically. A wild surge of religious fervor a few years earlier had made her a stranger to us, but she was softer in a way. We were convinced that she was going to become a lay Carmelite nun or join a Marian cult, which would have been a relief. She’d covered every wall and surface of the home she shared with my stepfather with statues of different iterations of the Virgin Mary and big, livid crucifixes. A picture of Jesus with long blonde hair pointing at his gruesome, flaming heart now hung in the kitchen and made me lose my appetite when I was home for the weekend from the state school I was barely attending two hours away.
I said yes to the trip. I knew that it was an attempt to expose me to some heavy Catholicism and make me see the light about getting married and having as many babies as G_d saw fit to give me, but I was in love with the idea of France. I mean: La vie! L’amour! Right? Still desperately pretending at bisexuality, I reasoned that I could fall in love with a French guy, maybe, and get her off my case. She would be far away from my new French life, at least.
I packed every wrong thing for a religious trip. Diet pills, cutoffs, Doc Martens, and a bunch of get-it-girl tops that laced up in the front or barely grazed my waistline. Some Neil Gaiman books and my Walkman and some tapes. Extra packs of Marlboro Lights. Gum. A big can of mixed nuts that I could eat, one at a time, if the food was too rich and dangerous. I was starving myself and mortifying my body.
I don’t remember his body. I remember being told to come back wearing a dress that covered my shoulders and knees. I remember feeling fascinated and repulsed by the relics encased in gold and glass: Shards of bone. Shredded cloth. A cabinet with a single blood-encrusted woolen glove resting on a pedestal draped in blue velvet. I tried to lift the lid. Locked. A woman who worked in the gift shop saw and shooed me away.